The electric earthing system explained
This is dangerous. The hot wire can cause permanent sparks can, or the dangerous inactive, waiting for a path to the granting of discharge.
The task of the grounding system is that path, diverting the levy on the ground so quickly that the sudden surge in the wires shall ensure that the circuit breaker overload and travel. Guide wires all hot and neutral wires and must be connected to any container, switch, furniture and appliance.
These threads converge in the ground bus bar, which is connected to the ground by a no. 6 or larger thread. The critical link in the whole system is the connection of this thread on the ground itself. A cold water pipe used must be adequate, but plastic plumbing materials now make it necessary to expand this connection with at least one grounding electrode connector.
Many local codes require that the ground wire on a second ground, such as an extra bar or cold water pipe continue uninterrupted.
There are four ways in which on the basis of your system:
1. buried. Connect the ground wire comes from the service panel to no. 2 or larger copper wire buried 2 1/2-feet deep for 20 or more feet beside the House.
2. linked to pipe. Large wires degenerate into a clip attached to a metal cold-water pipe. A bonding jumper may be required on the water meter.
3. Connected with rebar. Connect the ground wire from the service panel at 20 feet or more of no. 4, 1/2-inch steel rebar or larger solid copper wire embedded in concrete, typically the Foundation of the House.
4. Ground rod. Connect the ground wire to an approved copper or copper clad ground rod driven to a depth required by local code.
Surges (sudden increases in power) can destroy the microprocessors used in microwave ovens, refrigerators, ranges, personal computers and televisions. Surges are produced by changes in the power transmission lines, electric motors enable in the House, and lightning strikes on phone or power. Surges happen so fast they might not be noticed, but even small have a cumulative effect.
Protection against small surges can be achieved with multiple outlet strips that connect to Sockets. These works by dumping the excess current, sometimes in the ground conductor. They wear out and must occasionally be replaced. The best ones come up with a test button to tell you whether they still work.
There are also surge protectors that can handle the large burden caused by lighting strikes. These are slower to respond but high capacity. Contact your local electric utility before you install this kind of protector.
If lighting storms common in your environment, you may want to install a high capacity surge protector in addition to the plug-in types that deal with small increases. Surge protectors should be listed by Underwriters Laboratories (UL).
Using a voltage tester. This handy device lights up when household current passes through it. Use it to test whether wires or devices are hot and see if outlets are properly grounded. To test for current, keep one of the teeth against a known ground and hit the other pins on all cables and connections.
If the tester lights up, the thread is called. Try all possible connections with both nipples. To check for proper grounding, hold a short hook in the (warm) slot of the receptacle and the other prong grounding to the hole and then the front plate screw touch. It must be both times lit.
