How to Replace a Winkhaus One Motion 3-Point Multipoint Lock – All About Doors and Windows A Necessary Part of Your Door & Window Repairs!» Door and Window Parts » Multipoint Locks » How to Replace a Winkhaus One Motion 3-Point Multipoint Lock How to Replace a Winkhaus One Motion 3-Point Multipoint Lockby:

How to Replace a Winkhaus One Motion 3-Point Multipoint Lock
These instructions pertain specifically to replacing a Winkhaus One Motion 3-point lock with key located above the handle. This multipoint lock has a bottom locking position of 27″ and a top locking position of about 28-1/8″. This article applies to both the tongue and hookversions of this lock.
If replacing a lock with a backset of 45mm (part #499116299 – hook version), replace it with part #4990284If replacing a lock with a backset of 60mm (parts #499111599 – tongue version and #499116399 – hook version), replace it with part #4990282
A picture of an original Winkhaus One-Motion lock is shown below (click to enlarge).



If your lock does not look like the one above, this article will not guide you in replacing your lock. If you can’t find an article to help you with your project, please contact us and let us know how we can help you.

If your lock has not yet been removed from the door, the easiest way to determine if your lock is the one pictured above is by looking at the distance between the deadbolt and latch–if they are spaced more than 1-1/2″ apart, this is not your lock.

**NOTE: Take appropriate safety measures and precautions when removing, changing, cutting and replacing locks. Safety eyewear and gloves are highly recommended, especially when cutting. This guide will instruct you in replacing your Winkhaus lock with a HOPPE 4-point lock with the same top and bottom locking positions as the original lock. An additional top shootbolt will act as a third locking point. The fourth locking point is the deadbolt at the lockbox.

Replacement locks (4990282and 4990284) come in 3 pieces (Picture below):Gear box (with bottom tongue)Middle extension (with top tongue)Top extension with shootbolt*Note: requires all new hardware/handleset

Picture below compares the original and replacement locks. Notice the major differences:Difference in size/shape of lock boxHOPPE has extra shootbolt on topHOPPE features key below handle instead of above as on the Winkhaus lock; new handle will be in a different place on the doorWhen new lock is installed, new tongue positions will match up closely with original tongue positions of WinkhausDifference between top and bottom locking points:On original lock: 55″On replacement lock: 53-1/2″*Note: This is a 4-point lock system; optional 3-point lock without top tongue is available.

Summary of Replacement Process (Detailed Steps Follow)Remove existing lock hardware and all screws from faceplate; remove Winkhaus One Motion lock from door panel.Set new HOPPE lock (with middle extension attached) into mortise.Match top and bottom tongues close to location of Winkhaus top and bottom tongues and loosely hold lock in place with a screw or two. *Note: the locking points will NOT match exactly.See how bottom and top tongues match up to existing strike plates on door jamb.Adjust up and down until both tongues hit existing strikes correctly (or as close as possible).Trim shootbolt tip to fit in door.Modify door to accomodate new handle / key locations.Install new lock.Replace deadbolt strike plate with new one — requires enlarging hole in jamb.Replace handleset with new one — Euro version.

Detailed Steps:First Things First: Remove the Old LockUse a pencil to mark on the door jamb the center of the location of upper and lower locking latches (tongues or hooks) on your Winkhaus lock. You will align the new tongue latches of new HOPPE lock above or below these marks or within the opening of the strike plate on door jamb.

 

Mark the top and bottom of the 2″ opening in the strike plate on door jamb. In theory, the tongue or hook should be in the center of the strike opening.Unscrew the set screws on each of the handles and remove handles.Remove interior and exterior escutcheon plates; remove spindle though exterior side of door.Unscrew cylinder screw on door edge (where latch is located), and remove cylinder.Lock runs entire length of vertical edge of door. Remove all screws.Remove multipoint lock from the door edge.Fit New Lock in DoorAttach middle extension to lock gear if not already attached. Extension screws on easily. Check function to be sure locking devices extend and retract with handle movement.Slip HOPPE lock with extension into lock mortise in doorjamb.Align tongues as close as possible to alignment lines made in step 1. Distance between top and bottom tongues of original lock was 55″. Distance between top and bottom tongues of new lock is 53-1/2″, so there will be about 1-1/2 inches of play between original and new tongue locations. (Latches may be off about 3/4″ each–hole in strike plate is 2″.)Screw the lock in place in a few places. With all latches depressed, carefully swing door towards door frame to see how tongues line up with strikes in doorjamb. Tongues shuld both be able to line up with strike plates. Adjust lock up or down within door edge until lined up with strikes.Once lock is lined up correctly, use a pencil to mark the lock’s location– use the screw holes or locking points as guides to make marks on the door edge with pencil, so lock can easily be installed in the correct position.On the main gear box of the lock, an alignment line on the faceplate marks the handle-height (see picture to right). Mark this as well. On the front of the door panel, measure the distance of the backset (60mm) from the door’s edge and mark the location of the handle-hole. Measure down the distance of the PZ (92mm) from the handle-hole and mark the location of the clinder hole.Remove lock from door and drill holes for handle and cylinder.Trim that LockOn door, measure from handle alignment line to top of door. The shootbolt tip can be applied after the lock is installed. Be sure everything works properly before cutting top shootbolt to length.Sticking handle and spindle into handle-hole, turn lock so that tongue locks and deadbolt are engaged. Take new top shootbolt extension and pull on serrated piece until it is flush against back plate of extension.Lay top shootbolt next to full lock (with attached middle extension) so top of shootbolt (with bolt extended) sits where the top of the door should be (As determined by the measurement from step 15). Top shootbolt extension will overlap middle extension. This overlapping part of the top shootbolt is what needs to be trimmed.

 

Measure and mark twice to ensure that proper amount of top extension is removed so lock will fit in door edge and shootbolt can be properly engaged.Using a hacksaw, carefully trim through both serrated edge and faceplate of top shootbolt extension. *This step requires caution and knowledge of safety procedures. Have another person help hold the extension or use a clamp and pliers to hold extension while trimming. Extension will be hot during and after cutting.Use a file or sandpaper to smooth cut edge of trimmed piece.InstallationAffix top shootbolt to lock by sliding the toothed edge of the middle extension into the receiver of the top shootbolt. Install cover plate to keep middle and top extensions from becoming misaligned. **Note: Shootbolt can be adjusted up or down a little bit if not quite flush with top of door–move the teeth of the middle extension up or down within the receiver until lock is in proper position.

Place full lock into mortise in door, being careful to align lock with handle-alignment and tongue marks on door edge. Screw loosely in place.Insert a handle and spindle into lock to check lock operation while door is open. *Note: new lock has a mishandling device, which must be pressed down in order to engage locking points.If door functions properly, unlock lock and install and tighten all screws running up and down length of faceplate.Install new escutcheons and handles; this requires drilling new holes.Escutcheon plate information *See pictures on next page*OriginalWinkhaus Plate: 1-3/8″ x 8-3/4″ (screw holes spaced at 7-3/4)Replacement Option 1: 1-1/2″ x 11″ (screw holes spaced at 8-1/2″)Replacement Option 1: 1-1/2″ x 11″ (screw holes spaced at 8-1/2″)Old handleset will not work because key is no longer above handle. New handleset needs to have a PZ of 92mm and a screw hole spacing of 8-1/2″ or greater to ensure that original screw holes are covered.

 

Remove deadbolt/spring latch strike plate.With door closed, GENTLY throw bolt and locks so shootbolt and deadbolt make marks on the door jamb.Drill new holes for spring latch, deadbolt and socket strike at these marks. Install new HOPPE deadbolt strike plate and shootbolt socket strike. (Deadbolt / latch strikes shown below are for a 3″ door.)

 

Lock should now be fully installed and functioning correctly; strike for top and bottom tongues should work for new lock without needing to be moved or modified. If tongue strikes do not match up correctly, it might be necessary to enlarge hole in strike plate to lock correctly.

**NOTE: Due to the difference in handle-height between old and new locks, there may be an inch or so of exposed groove at the bottom of door where old lock used to reach flush to bottom of door. If you wish to cover this up, we suggest retrofitting a piece of the cut-off from the top extension; use a titanium bit to drill hole if needed; screw in place to cover exposed groove.



Click below to download your own printable guide from All About Doors & Windows to help you replace your Winkhaus lock.

How to Replace a Winkhaus One Motion Multipoint Lock

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